Many satiated visitors have asked between sips of wine, how did New Orleans cuisine become so good? The answer: a dynamic cultural mix for one thing, with roots in the rich European Mediterranean cuisines of France, Spain, and Italy, as well as African contributions like gumbo, jambalaya, and the important philosophy of "soul food." The hot climate demands spices (spicy food cools the body) and there is accessibility to a bounty of fresh game and seafood. But above and beyond these factors, it is the deep, communal passion here for food and all its variations that creates such an exalted cuisine.

Creole is a cooking style unique to New Orleans, different from the Cajun style (which is essentially a rural cuisine based on French-Acadian roots). Creole is cosmopolitan, having emerged last century as European chefs began experimenting with local ingredients and ethnic influences in order to satisfy an increasingly mixed cultural environment. That evolution continues today, as chefs such as Emeril Lagasse (Emeril's) and Susan Spicer (Bayona) create new dishes rooted in tradition, but which tantalize the contemporary palate.

Acme Oyster House
724 Iberville St.
504-522-5980
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Moderate
Cuisine type: Seafood
Just off Bourbon Street, Acme is a timeless New Orleans establishment. Oyster lovers can't miss this one, as shell-shuckers stand near the front, ready to fill your order for a dozen raw, fresh, plump oysters. The seafood gumbo pooba (served in bowl-shaped bread) is also a treat, as are the various fried seafood platters. The dress is casual, and there are no reservations and a line that can get very long at busy times.

Antoine's
713 St. Louis St.
504-581-4422
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Very Expensive
Cuisine type: Creole
In existence since 1840 and operated by six generations of the Alciatore family, this may be the oldest restaurant in North America. It's a haven for the city's old-guard elite, with 15 separate dining rooms, ranging from a large, chandelier-lit main room to the smaller Rex Room, decorated with old Carnival memorabilia. A social pecking order dictates how far back you sit. Presidents, heads of state, and other prominent figures traditionally dine in the back room. If sat in the front room, a distinguished local would be offended. All these "social airs" may seem a bit much, but the food is outstanding. This is where oysters Rockefeller and pompano en papillote (fish baked in a paper bag) originated, and the traditional creole cuisine is preserved in all its glory. Oysters Foch and the salty puffed potatoes are also exquisite. Overall, it's a taste of aristocratic dining from the last century. Coat and tie required, and reservations are advised.

Arnaud's
813 Bienville St.
504-523-5433
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Very Expensive
Cuisine type: Creole
Founded by Count Arnaud in 1918, this restaurant may not be as old as Antoine's, but it's just as steeped in old-guard traditions. The shrimp Arnaud, served in a spicy remoulade sauce, is a legendary appetizer. Make sure to save room for the magnificent crème brulee. There are six public dining rooms, 12 beautifully decorated private dining rooms, New Orleans jazz nightly in the Richelieu Room, and if that's not enough ambiance for you, there's even a Mardi Gras museum. Coat and tie are required, and reservations are advised.

Bacco
Hotel de la Poste
310 Chartres St.
504-522-2426
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Expensive
Cuisine type: Italian
One of the many jewels in the crown of the Brennan restaurant clan, this establishment offers the most creative spin on Italian food in the area. Italianate architecture, Gothic arches, Venetian chandeliers, murals, and baroque ceiling paintings create a magnificent atmosphere in which to feast upon Tuscan-influenced fare with a New Orleans twist. Specialties include veal scaloppini, roast pork loin, tortellini stuffed with gorgonzola cheese, fettuccine with sausage, wood-fired pizzas, fresh regional seafood, and much more. Dress elegantly and jackets strongly advised for men. Reservations are advised.

Bayona
430 Dauphine St.
504-525-4455
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Very Expensive
Cuisine type: Creole
Located in a romantic creole cottage in the historic French Quarter, this is where renowned chef Susan Spicer prepares her nationally acclaimed cuisine. For creativity and flavor, only Emeril's can compete. The cream of garlic soup, the Thai shrimp salad, and the grilled shrimp with black bean cakes are noteworthy. But with these cutting-edge restaurants, it's best to order the most up to date specials. Dress elegantly and jackets advised for men. Reservations are advised.

Brennan's
417 Royal St.
504-525-9711
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Very Expensive
Cuisine type: Creole
Owned an d operated by the Brennan restaurant clan for generations, this is where one of New Orleans most famous desserts, bananas Foster, was invented, after a chef was bet that he couldn't create an elegant dish with bananas. It's even more famous for Breakfast at Brennan's, a huge brunch with 20 different egg dishes, mostly poached with divine hollandaise sauce and eye-opening cocktails. Set in an 18th-century mansion with a French courtyard and fountain and 12 formal dining rooms, this place packs in tourists, especially for breakfast, so book ahead. Dress elegantly; jeans are not appropriate.

Cafe Rani
2917 Magazine St. between 6th and 7th streets
504-895-2500
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Moderate
Cuisine type: Cafe, Vegetarian
This new Garden District location offers a bright, cheerful atmosphere, with patio dining available. It fills the need for a casual lunch/dinner spot where tasty and healthy food can coexist (a rarity in New Orleans). Diners enjoy gourmet salads, sandwiches, pastas, vegetarian fare, and weekend brunch on Saturday and Sunday, along with specialty coffees and teas. Probably the best cappuccino in town is served here. No reservations are accepted.

Camellia Grill
626 South Carrollton Ave.
504-866-9573
Credit cards accepted: None
Price range: Inexpensive
Cuisine type: American/Diner
This old fashioned diner, located in the Uptown area known as the Riverbend, is a local institution. There's counter seating only, which can mean a wait at busy times, but it's always worth it. Part of the fun is the irrepressible banter of the waiters and fry cooks. Hamburgers, enormous omelettes, "The Judges Chicken" sandwich, and the nap-inducing "Doc Brinker" double-decker sandwich are among the many treats. Save room for the apple or pecan pie. It is open until 3am on weekends, making it a great stop after a night on the town. Dress casual; no reservations are accepted.

Central Grocery Store
923 Decatur St.
504-523-1620
Fax: 504-523-1670
Credit cards accepted: None
Price range: Inexpensive
Cuisine type: Italian
The counter at this old-fashioned Italian grocery store serves up the best muffuletta sandwich. The muffuletta is a New Orleans original. It is a fresh round of Italian bread stuffed with imported meats, cheese, and a spicy olive salad dressing. It's best to take your muffuletta (a half sandwich will satisfy most appetites) over to the river, so you can eat while watching the boats slowly churn past.

Commander's Palace
1403 Washington Ave.
504-899-8221
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Very Expensive
Cuisine type: Creole
Located in the historic Garden District, this Brennan's family establishment is the old granddaddy of gourmet New Orleans restaurants. Legend has it that during a fire that struck the restaurant nearly a century ago, the chefs risked their lives to save the turtle soup pot, which had acquired years of seasoning. That's the sort of devotion to serving fine food that exists here. The turtle soup is still excellent, as is the poached oysters with caviar, and, of course, the signature bread-pudding soufflé dessert. Most of the city's best chefs have done a stint here (such as Emeril Lagasse); it's where a young chef learns the tradition before creating his own style. The service is also outstanding. Jackets are required for men and reservations are a must. Ask for a table overlooking the giant oak tree.

Crescent City Steak House
1001 North Broad
504-821-3271
504-821-9455
Credit cards accepted: American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Expensive
Cuisine type: American, Steakhouse
Even though it's been open since 1934, very few tourists know about this place. It's relatively low key, with a television playing in the dining room and an old juke box, but the steaks are world class. They come out perfectly cooked to order, sizzling in butter, ready to melt in your mouth. Choose from filet, rib eye, strip, T-bone, and porterhouse, and don't forget the au gratin potatoes. There is no hype or fanfare, just great steaks. Booths with curtains for privacy add to the early-century charm. Reservations are accepted, although there's hardly ever a wait.

Domilise's Po-Boys
5240 Annunciation St.
504-899-9126
Price range: Inexpensive
Cuisine type: Diner
If you want the definitive seafood po-boy sandwich, seek out this hard to find bar/lunch shop in a working class neighborhood near the river. From 11am to 3pm, Monday through Friday, the motherly ladies of the Domilise family stuff loaf upon loaf of French bread with perfectly fried shrimp and oysters. The roast beef po-boy dressed with gravy is also hard to beat. After you order, sidle over to the bar for a couple Barq's root beers. There are a few tables at this small, counter-style lunch spot, but most customers take their orders to go.

Emeril's
800 Tchoupitoulas St.
504-528-9393
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Very Expensive
Cuisine type: Creole
Winner of countless culinary awards, this restaurant was opened in 1990 by chef Emeril Lagasse, now a national celebrity with his own cable TV show. This restaurant consistently lives up to Emeril's motto "kick it up a notch," with dishes that surprise and satisfy, always with a distinctive flare. The menu is constantly evolving, but the barbecue shrimp and banana cream pie are not to be missed. Dress elegantly and jackets advised for men. Reservations are also advised.

Gautreau's Restaurant
1728 Soniat St.
504-899-7397
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Very Expensive
Cuisine type: Creole
This culinary gem is hidden away in a quiet uptown neighborhood. In fact, it's so hard to find that it only survives through word of mouth. Duck and other fresh game is served wonderfully, complimented by a superb wine list and desserts that are out of this world. The dining room is fairly small and the atmosphere is somewhat formal, so dress accordingly (jackets advised for men.) Reservations are advised.

Jacques-Imo's Cafe
8324 Oak St
504-861-0886
Credit cards accepted: MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Moderate
Cuisine type: Creole, Soul Food
Tucked into a small shotgun cottage near the Maple Leaf Bar, this relatively new restaurant has become extremely popular, and deservedly so. Best described as contemporary Creole soul food, with items ranging from stuffed pork chops and fried chicken to fresh game and seafood served in exquisite sauces like wild mushroom and artichoke-ginger sauce. The tastes are fantastically gourmet, but the prices are reasonable, the quantities large, and the atmosphere ultra-funky and laid back. You walk from the front bar through the tiny, bustling kitchen to get to the back patio dining area. Dress is casual and reservations are accepted for parties of five or more.

K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen
416 Chartres St.
504-596-2530
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Expensive
Cuisine type: Cajun
This is the restaurant that started the "blackened" craze and brought Cajun cooking to the world's attention, featuring chef Paul Prudhomme's interpretations of Acadian cuisine. Set in a casual cafe with red and white checked cloth-covered tables. Gumbo, blackened yellow fin tuna, fried crawfish tails, roast duck with rice dressing, corn-flour biscuits, and sweet potato-pecan pie are just a few of the rotating highlights on a menu which changes daily. Prices are lower for lunch, but reservations aren't accepted, and there is often a line to be seated. Reservations are accepted and required for dinner.

Katie's Restaurant and Bar
3701 Iberville St.
504-488-6582
Credit cards accepted: MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Moderate
Cuisine type: Soul Food
This is one of the best neighborhood-style restaurants in the city, meaning it's low on ambiance and high on victuals that stick to your ribs. It serves great gumbo, fried seafood po-boy sandwiches, and steaks. No reservations are accepted. This is a good place to have a beer and feel like a local.

Mother's
401 Poydras St.
504-523-9656
Price range: Inexpensive/Moderate
Cuisine type: Soul Food
This is the mother of all neighborhood po-boy joints. It is over 50 years old and located a few blocks outside the French Quarter. The po' boy is the New Orleans version of the sub or hoagie sandwich, with loads of meat or fresh seafood on French bread. Dressed means it comes with toppings and condiments, usually a tasty blend of mayonnaise, Creole mustard, lettuce, pickles, tomato and, in some cases, cheese. Locals and tourists eagerly line up at Mother's to order the combination "Ferdi" po' boy (which can come with roast beef "debris" gravy if you so desire), or other regional favorites such as gumbo, jambalaya, etouffee, red beans and rice, and fried seafood. Breakfast specials include homemade biscuits, grits, ham, debris, and turkey. This is also home of Mother's Best Baked Hams. No reservations are accepted for this casual, cafeteria-style dining.

Nola
534 St. Louis St.
504-522-6652
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Expensive
Cuisine type: Creole
A contemporary gem tucked into a historic yellow stucco townhouse, this is renowned chef Emeril Lagasse's second restaurant, designed to be his hip outpost in the French Quarter. It's slightly more affordable than Emeril's (the original restaurant), but the food is equally imaginative and fantastic. The horseradish-citrus encrusted trout roasted in a wood oven, and the sausage stewed in beer, onions, cane syrup, and Creole mustard atop a sweet-potato crouton are favorites. The inventive taste combinations seem to be endless. Apple-buttermilk pie with cinnamon ice cream is a good way to top it off. Dress elegantly; reservations are advised.

Port of Call
838 Esplanade Ave.
504-523-0120
Credit cards accepted: American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Moderate
Cuisine type: American
On the downtown edge of the French Quarter, Port of Call serves the best, juiciest hamburgers in town with a piping-hot baked potato on the side. No need to look at the rest of the menu, except for cocktails. A maritime barroom atmosphere and a fantastic jukebox adds to the fun. Dress is casual; no reservations are accepted.

Ralph Brennan's Redfish Grill
115 Bourbon St.
504-598-1200
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Moderate
Cuisine type: Creole, Seafood
This Brennan restaurant is notably more casual and affordable than the others. The cuisine leans more towards California-Creole, emphasizing seafood. Try chef Devlin's barbecue shrimp po-boy or sweet potato catfish. Expect a festive ambience, whimsical decor, lively cocktail and oyster bar, and don't miss Pam's bananas Foster for dessert. Dress elegantly casual; reservations are accepted.

The Praline Connection
542 Frenchman St.
504-943-3934
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Moderate
Cuisine type: Soul Food
With two locations, one in the Faubourg Marigny (just east of the French Quarter) and another in the Warehouse District at 901 South Peters (504-523-3973), this is one of the most accessible and tasty soul food establishments in town. Superb fried or stewed chicken, smothered pork chops, red beans and rice, mustard greens, gumbo, jambalaya, barbecued ribs, cornbread, pecan pie, and, of course, the addictive candies which are its namesake. Dress is casual; reservations are accepted, though rarely necessary.

Windsor Court Grill Room
Windsor Court Hotel
l320 Gravier St.
504-522-1992
Credit cards accepted: American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
Price range: Very Expensive
Cuisine type: Creole
This is the only five-star hotel restaurant in the c city, catering primarily to the wealthy elite, which shows in the almost excruciating attention to detail. The food matches the ambiance, fortunately. Chef Rene Bajeux brings a global perspective to regional and "New American" cuisine, emphasizing the finest ingredients and preparation. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily, with weekend brunch on Saturday and Sunday. Jackets are required for men and reservations are advised.